Cult Logic: Behind Fashion’s Favourite Cultural Movements
16-04-2025
Fashion, Opinion
[Close]

Fashion absorbs, reinterprets, and often overwhelms entire cultural systems in search of relevance. And over the past decade, it’s become clear that certain scenes—streetwear, sneaker culture, contemporary art, digital fashion, and now the world of design—hold particular power.

These aren’t just trends. They’re tightly-knit, often insider communities that operate with their own codes, values, and economies. What makes them magnetic to fashion isn’t just the aesthetics—they represent self-contained ecosystems of identity, influence, and scarcity. For early adopter consumers, they’re more than style references; they’re cultural operating systems.

This season for Salone, Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello went through Charlotte Perriand’s archives and selected four of her designs made between 1943 and 1967 to reproduce and reissue as limited editions.

However, as the fashion industry moves through different domains, it's important to consider how it can do so with respect to avoid becoming a cultural wrecking ball - leaving beloved cultural fields in a rubble state once they have commercialised them and moved on.

This essay looks at the common traits that define these movements—and asks what happens when fashion enters the room. What draws fashion in? What does it take? What does it leave behind?

And now, as fashion increasingly turns its attention to the world of design (just see the recent Salone del Mobile in Milan), the bigger question becomes: can it participate without destroying?

A Timeline of Cultural Operating Systems in Fashion (2015–2025)

Over the past 10 years, we have observed a tendency of brands, particularly from the fashion industry, to swarm towards that latest and shiniest new toy on the shelf. From sneaker culture to design, there are two year windows where fashion decides to collaborate, but sometimes co-opt, certain scenes in return for relevance and credibility.

Now, design and art are very different 'OS's to streetwear and digital fashion. However, in a recent conversation with the great James Denman, we discussed that the danger comes when an OS becomes the obsession of the non-elite, like when alcohol brands (and Trump) began to release their own streetwear lines.

What's really important here is that brands do not start pumping out more meaningless product in a desperate attempt to do what the cool kids are doing.

The bottom line is, you wouldn't move fast and break things in a design museum, so we can't allow brands to do the same in the design world.

Let’s take a look…

Five Shared Characteristics of Cultural OS

What unites these movements isn’t their medium, but their structure. At their core, they operate like operating systems with five shared characteristics that continually attract early adopters and define what’s next.

1. Insider Knowledge as Currency

Whether it’s the significance of Jil Sander’s reinterpretation of Marcel Breuer’s S 64 chair for Thonet or the origin of BAPE camo, fluency signals status. These systems reward those who research, collect, and decode. Knowledge acts as an initial barrier to entry, allowing a scene to develop nuance and deeper meaning. They aren’t for everyone—and that’s the point.

2. Scarcity and Controlled Access

From sneaker raffles to gallery-limited furniture pieces, access is a key part of the value system. Early adopters are drawn to scarcity—not just for resale value, but for the cultural identity it confers. Brands that successfully articulate themselves in the latest cultural OS instantly speak the language of the progressive - effectively positioning themselves as tastemakers.

3. Identity Through Affiliation

Being part of these movements is a way to signal who you are and what you value. Wearing a Travis Scott x Nike Air Force 1 sneaker or owning a collectible Bearbrick figurine, or merely being present at the Dimorestudio directed Loro Piana experience in Milan, is a passport to a world of shared meaning and aesthetic alignment.

4. Cross-Disciplinary Fluidity

These systems thrive when there is blur. Artists become designers. Designers become furniture makers. Musicians drop fashion lines. During periods of cultural flux, fashion and other creative fields expand their creative horizons and exciting things do happen. Fashion, in particular, moves fluidly between these spheres because so do the people shaping them.

5. Physical Artefacts with Emotional Weight

A grail sneaker, an assouline x fashion brand limited edition book, or a one-off armchair isn’t just an object—it’s a memory, a flex, a piece of cultural time. These movements wrap narrative and identity around physical form, which is precisely why fashion keeps returning to them.

Custom Rimowa designed by British-Nigerian designer and artist, Slawn

The Risk of Extraction—and the Opportunity to Build Differently

It’s no surprise that Salone puritans can be heard grumbling about the recent invasion of fashion’s luxury elite. On the one hand, increased eyeballs around a particular in-the-know cultural sphere can only benefit the scene (much like it did with streetwear), however we must be careful about how much of the attention share it takes away from the original makers, artisans and designers.

However, history would suggest that there is a darker pattern beneath this cycle: fashion doesn’t just adopt cultural movements—it consumes them. It extracts their symbols, accelerates their timelines, and leaves behind a hollowed-out version of what once felt sacred - especially by founding members of these scenes.

For example, streetwear was once intimate and community-first. Fashion turned it luxury, then mass, then passé.

Sneaker culture was once about stories and collectibility. Now it’s oversaturated and algorithmically gamed.

Digital fashion was overhyped and underlived—launched for headlines, not built for longevity.

The risk for design—currently the cultural operating system of choice—and any future cultural OS is that it becomes the next victim of fashion’s high-speed train. That it gets turned into an agency brief, a capsule, a vibe—and left behind when the next shiny thing appears.

“Choose Your Cultural OS”. Inspired by early 2000s software UI and old-school install wizards, this visual reframes fashion’s cyclical relationship with cultural movements—from streetwear to design—as a series of downloaded ‘operating systems.’ A playful warning on what happens when fashion installs without care.

How Brands Can Benefit without Bulldozing

To avoid this, fashion must approach design not as a trend to mine, but as a discipline to respect. So far, elite fashion brands have shown an immense ability to fund and execute finely put together presentations at Salone, but as displays get bigger and bigger, we need to make sure that, like any tech OS, there are meaningful updates.

That means:

  1. Moving beyond aesthetics into real structural collaboration with designers and architects.

  2. Invest in innovation. Make sure that brands aren’t rehashing great art, but helping true creatives make distinctively original new works.

  3. Matching design’s slower pace with slower fashion—fewer pieces, more permanence.

  4. Letting design reshape fashion’s own methods, not just accessorize them.

  5. Funding schools, spaces, and platforms that support the culture of design long-term.

  6. Thinking in systems, not silos. Creating brands that live across spaces, not just across seasons.

Because if fashion keeps consuming culture without care, it risks burning through its last reservoirs of meaning. But if it listens—if it partners, slows down, and builds with—then maybe this time, it doesn’t just borrow from design...

...but leaves it better than it was found.

[Back to articles overview]